The Holiday Tree Lights Up for the First Time After the Start of the Conflict
For two years amid the conflict in Gaza, all public celebrations marking the holiday season were called off within the city of Bethlehem in the occupied West Bank. This city is where the faithful hold the birth of Jesus occurred.
However, following the recent ceasefire, this sacred city decided that now the festivities would return, as represented by the lighting of its traditional, large holiday tree before the ancient Church of the Nativity.
"It's been two difficult years of silence; no Christmas, no jobs, no income," remarks Bethlehem Mayor Maher Canawati. "Our community survives on tourism and the tourist trade was down to zero."
He acknowledges that the idea to restart festivities faced some controversy, given the ongoing hardship in Gaza – including for members of the small Christian population, many of whom have relatives in Bethlehem.
"Certain voices argue it's not appropriate while others contend it's appropriate," Mr Canawati explains. "But deep inside my heart, I felt this constituted the correct action to take because the Christmas season should never be halted or abandoned. This is the light of hope for us."
A Spark of Celebration Returns
Locals – both Christians and Muslims – pose for selfies in front of the tree decorated with gold and red ornaments at Manger Square. They are accompanied by a small number of international visitors.
Vibrant lights now decorate city streets and there are signs advertising Christmas bazaars and festive events for children.
"We are delighted to have the tree, first thing, and to see foreigners to Bethlehem and to be able to celebrate Christmas in its true spirit," comments local jewellery designer Nadya Hazboun.
"This is where everything began, so this is where we can convey the message to the world of what Christmas truly should be about. And this year, if Christmas is peaceful, then I hope it will bring a nice message for the entire world."
Economic Prospects and Challenges
The neighbouring towns including Beit Jala and Beit Sahour also intend to light Christmas trees soon. Hotels – which have stood largely empty for the past two years – have an influx of bookings from Palestinian citizens of Israel along with certain international tourists.
A visitor from Russia, Angelica, is on her second pilgrimage to this region. "In my view every person should visit at minimum one time in their life," she says.
"I wish a lot of people will return soon because it's sad with few tourists. The only thing that's good is that there are no lengthy queues – one can visit and experience more. On my prior visit you had to wait in a queue for a few hours minimum."
Currently, the souvenir stores dotted around Bethlehem have little business, and outside the pale walls of the Nativity Church, which date back to the 4th century, guides are mostly unoccupied. Prior to the Gaza war, it was often crammed with people.
"This is a city for tourists; absent visitors there is no livelihood," laments one guide Hamza. "We hope to see individuals coming back like before: from Europe, the Middle East, America, Latin America and everywhere. We start with lighting the tree, and then we will wait."
The Lingering Economic Impact
Over the last two years, unemployment has skyrocketed within Bethlehem. Following the lethal attacks led by Hamas in southern Israel in October 2023 that sparked the conflict, tens of thousands of Palestinian labourers from the West Bank region have been prevented from entering Israel and Israeli settlements for work.
Meanwhile, government employees have received just a portion of their salaries from the Palestinian Authority (PA) – that administers areas within the West Bank. The PA depends on tax revenues collected by Israel, which it is withholding – to the tune of 1.76 billion dollars, as reported by a UN agency.
Israel says it is holding the funds due to the fact that the Authority provides payments to incarcerated Palestinians that incentivise violence against Israelis. The PA – which has been under international pressure to make reforms – says it has lately modified its welfare system.
An Austere Christmas Season
The bleak economic situation implies that for many Palestinian Christians, even though there are currently public festivities as well as religious ceremonies, it will constitute an austere Christmas.
At the edge of the square, a few customers wait to purchase sizzling balls of falafel from several shops.
"We are getting ready for the holiday after one of our most challenging times as a Palestinian people and as a Christian community," says Alaa Salameh, an owner of a restaurant called Afteem, a long-established family restaurant that has witnessed its revenues collapse. He says that recently many families could not even afford falafel – an inexpensive, traditional food.
"The faithful will attempt to celebrate but based on their situation," Mr Salameh expects. "Someone who wants to take his kids to a festival or a show or similar, they lack the funds to spend on these celebrations."
Prayers for Peace and Prosperity
In the cave-like grotto beneath the church, a local woman follows a tour group from India, stooping down by a silver star that indicates the spot where tradition states that Jesus was born and lighting a candle nearby.
With tensions still high across the region, people in Bethlehem say they are praying for tranquility – and hoping for tourists to come back to the location which is thought to be where Christmas started.